What is Wagyu?

Imagine having such a unique gene and being raised with such special care that you become priceless. In fact, you’re considered the best in the world. Sometimes you even get massages, sometimes you’re given beer. Living a stress-free, luxurious life in Japan. Sounds like a dream, right? Well, it’s not a dream, it’s reality.

Welcome to my blog post themed “Being a Cattle in Japan.”
Do you know why Wagyu is so valuable, and what makes it so famous and unique? I didn’t either—so I got curious and did some research. Based on the official sources and academic articles I read, I’ve summarized the details for you.

Today, we’re going to take a step-by-step look at one of the most prized and expensive foods in the world the Japanese cattle, also known as WAGYU.

a painting of a group of horses in a field

two brown and black buffalos on green grass

The History Of Waygu:

As always, to truly understand something, we need to examine its origins, its history. When I began researching Wagyu in Japan, the first thing that came to mind was this: How could a society that historically prohibited meat consumption for many years, influenced by Buddhism and Shintoism (a society that didn't eat meat) manage to produce the finest meat?

If this is your first time hearing this, yes, you heard right. There was a time when meat wasn't consumed in Japan. Why? Because it was forbidden. But let's go back even further than that. Let's look at the 2nd century.

The Arrival of Cattle in Japan:

In the 2nd century, cattle were brought from Korea to the Shikoku region of Japan, not for food. They were used as pack animals. These animals plowed their fields, making their work easier. The first breed to arrive was the Hanwoo (Korean cattle). Due to the region's mountainous terrain, the cattle initially remained, but later, different breeds of varying quality emerged. Under the influence of Buddhism and Shintoism, the Japanese abstained from meat for 1,200 years. According to their religious beliefs, this is forbidden. Towards the end of the 1800s, the Meiji Restoration took place. This meant they broke away from this period of closed-off life and began to open up. They began to improve themselves. Meiji is the name of the emperor who came to power after the fall of the shogunate.

During Japan's modernization period, commanders began forcing their soldiers to eat meat. Because these people didn't eat meat, their muscles weren't strong enough. This allowed the soldiers to become accustomed to it and develop a habit of eating meat. When they returned home, they couldn't eat meat at home because their families still didn't traditionally consume meat. So, to satisfy this habit, they began cooking outside, a kind of barbecue. Over time, as meat consumption increased, so did demand, and the Japanese deliberately bred selected animals to create the genetically superior Japanese cattle, or Wagyu.

How is Wagyu So Perfect?

A marbled appearance, a creamy, melt-in-your-mouth flavor, juicy, wonderful flavor… This animal has such genetics that its fat production is unlike any other cattle. How? Controlled mating.

Those with the best genetics were selected and mated. They also avoided inbreeding. Thus, very deliberately, guided by science, the Japanese have succeeded in producing some of the finest meat in the world today.

But genetics isn't everything. They care for their cattle with the utmost care. They raise them with the right nutrition, guided by accurate research. They massage the animals when necessary to prevent stress. They even feed them beer and play music for nutritional support. Because resources are limited, this is a common practice.

So why are they so focused on not only eating beef but also improving its quality? Is it because they're obsessed with perfection? No. As you read above, or perhaps you can read, meat has been absent from Japanese history. Meat isn't their main course. Rice is their main course. Meat is the accompaniment to everything. That's why the author of the article I read wrote that it's the quality, not the quantity, that matters. It makes perfect sense. When you think about it, the value they place on rice, the care they take to avoid waste and avoid leaving rice on their plate, are completely different. Meat is the accompaniment, but it's of such high quality that it's the best. Perhaps that's why they didn't want to surround every corner of the country with cattle ranches.

raw meat on white and green floral ceramic plate

a close up of a bunch of meat on a cutting board

For the curious: MFA:SFA:

Okay, the genetics are good, they're raised correctly. So, is every fatty meat good meat?

Here's the key to the answer: MFA:SFA. This is the ratio of saturated fat to unsaturated fat in meat. This ratio determines the quality of the meat.

MUFAs are unsaturated fats. If you look at their molecules, you'll see a coiled double bond. SFAs are saturated fats. Their molecules are straight. So, why are we talking about their molecules? What's it to us? I researched this and learned that straight molecules are tightly packed together. We can think of them like wooden pieces stacked on top of each other. This is why they are solid and have high melting points. So, if meat has high SFAs, or saturated fats, its melting point increases.

In MUFAs, the coiled molecules, there are gaps between their arrangements, making it harder for them to bond together. This is why they melt at a lower temperature. So, what does all this detailed information have to do with Wagyu?

Wagyu beef is very high in MUFA. This means it melts very easily at low temperatures. It melts like cream in your mouth. It's very tender. Therefore, how it's cooked is also important.

Here is a table showing melting points I found from an article;

Visual adapted from the article titled, The Production of High-Quality Beef with Wagyu Cattle (Gotoh et al., 2015).

Another important point in the table is that their melting points, and therefore their quality, vary depending on their diet. This demonstrates the importance of proper breeding.

Raising Wagyu:

Did you know that 2.5 million cattle were raised in Japan in 2017?

Japan exports meat to many parts of the world. According to data from 2016, Japan supplied 62% of the world's beef needs. This is a significant amount.

Raising them is also not easy. Due to Japan's geographical features, farms often prevent these animals from being released into the wild. The area where the animals can roam freely is quite mountainous.

Furthermore, production is quite costly. It takes 30 months for a Wagyu to fully fatten. Considering that a 10-month-old animal costs $5,800, it's quite expensive. The need to import feed to feed these animals naturally increases the price. Fattening an animal for 30 months, which allows its meat to become marbled, is very costly. Furthermore, the dependence on imported feed and the resulting food security problem is a significant problem. It can lead to chronic diseases in the animals. Unable to graze and with limited movement in their confined spaces, these animals are sometimes force-fed to gain fat and weight. This can be cruel to the animals.

Wagyu production is actually an area open to development and streamlining. However, this doesn't relegate Wagyu to the category of cheap meat. Wagyu also possesses a limited genetic diversity. While this is one of the things that makes it special, it also makes it less resistant to disease. There isn't a production network that has yet reached a high level of sustainability. However, this doesn't mean it can't exist. On the contrary, serious studies and research continue to be conducted on this animal.

For example, in Australia, there is a specialized production system that utilizes modern agriculture. Furthermore, the meat has a high rate of marbling. However, they also struggle with high costs.

Wagyu production faces numerous challenges due to significant factors such as climate, weather conditions, geographical features, the long-term specialized breeding process, and rising labor costs.

Of course, the Wagyu you eat in Japan today will be cheaper. Simply put, logistics costs are different.

Production actually takes place in many countries, particularly Japan. These countries are also aiming to improve the quality of their meat and increase its marbling rate. They're also selling it at lower prices. Consumers are also concerned about food safety, health, and sustainability. I personally believe that a country as developed as Japan will find a solution. Ultimately, having competitors on the path to becoming the best also enhances quality.

What are the Wagyu Classifications?

In Japanese, Wagyu means Japanese cattle, and the Japanese divide Wagyu into four categories:

Japanese Black

Japanese Brown

Japanese Shorthorn

Japanese Hornless

To avoid confusion, it's important to note that Wagyu isn't just categorized by breed. It's also named after the region where it's raised, just like wine or cheese. You can think of these as products with geographical indications. Some producers brand their meat after the region, while others prefer a more specific name.

There are over 200 Wagyu brands in Japan, but the most prestigious are:

Kobe Beef (Hyōgo)
Matsusaka Beef (Mie)
Ōmi Beef (Shiga)
Miyazaki Beef (Kyushu)
Kagoshima Beef (Kyushu)

Not every beef raised in Hyogo Prefecture is Kobe. For this reason:

It must be born in Hyogo Prefecture It must be raised in Hyogo Prefecture

It must exceed a certain quality and be certified. So, when you see Kobe beef, you can tell it's a Hyogo Prefecture brand. So, we can categorize Wagyu step by step as follows:

Breed (the four main breeds we mentioned at the beginning)

Region (brand names based on the regions we just analyzed)

Quality Score (we'll get to this now)

A field with a house and a barn in the background

a grassy field with a barn and mountains in the background

herd of cow on green grass field during daytime

a brown cow standing in a lush green field

Two black cows grazing in a grassy field

Not only that, but it's also graded to further quantify its quality. While Japan has the primary classification system, it can vary in other countries.

The Japanese system is as follows:

It consists of two main evaluation categories.

1. Productivity:

Determines the percentage of meat that can be extracted from the carcass.

A: Highest yield (≥ 72%)

B: Average (≈ 69–72%)

C: Low yield (< 69%)

2. Quality:

They further divide this into four categories:

Marbling (BMS-Beef Marbling Standards)
Meat color and sheen
Meat firmness and texture
Fat color and sheen
Each criterion is scored from 1 to 5; the lowest score is the overall quality score.

In other words, the process is as follows:

Productivity + Quality = 15 different grades, such as A5, B3, and C1.

A herd of cattle grazing on a lush green field

Marbling - BMS Number (1–12):

The most important factor is MARBLING. This is the comparison of how far and close the meat is to the point where it looks like marble.

The BMS score ranges from 1–12, with 12 being the highest level.

BMS 8–12 → Very high quality marbling.
To receive an A5 score, the BMS must be at least 8.

For example, Kobe beef:

Tajima breed from Hyōgo,
At least BMS 6,
Meat quality ≥4, and yield A or B.

Beef Marbling Standards According to Japan Meat Grading Association:

Picture taken from the article titled, The Production of High-Quality Beef with Wagyu Cattle (Gotoh et al., 2015).

Apart from this, they've redesigned and adapted the system based on the quality capabilities of the meat they produce in other countries.

But it's based on the local Japanese system. If you're curious, you can examine the table above in detail. I took it from an article I really liked. I hope it's helpful.

Fake Wagyu:

Unfortunately, they've managed to manipulate Wagyu meat these days. If it's genuine, it has a tracking number. Furthermore, the nose print of the Wagyu is taken, like a person's fingerprint. This also has a certificate. Those of you with you have an ID for real Wagyu.

If you're suspicious, be sure to ask for a certificate. If it's genuine, it has a certificate.

For example, you might see the words "Kobe Style" or "American Wagyu" when you use it. These are misleading. Kobe Style must be from Japan, not Kobe. The best way to tell is to check for certification.

a couple of pieces of raw meat on a cutting board

Wagyu Olympics:

The Wagyu Olympics are held every five years in Japan. They are called the Zenkoku Wagyu Noryoku Kyoshin-kai. First held in 1966, these competitions continue to this day.

This competition fosters competition and ensures the highest standards are maintained among farmers. It also creates a significant advertising and prestige opportunity for farmers. They don't do this for the monetary reward. The prestige of their brand is more valuable than that money. Fame and market power come with it.

It's called the Olympics because each animal represents the best in its region.

Even the winning animal's semen sells for thousands of dollars.

Winning doesn't mean being the best, and losing doesn't mean being the worst. They honor these animals and farms, which are a source of national pride. It's also a fact that it contributes to tourism and media.

The image is taken from the BBC Travel article "The Wagyu Olympics: The Quest for the World's Best Beef" (BBC, 2022).

How to cook Wagyu:

If you have a thick piece of Wagyu, cook it medium rare. Do not add oil to the pan (preferably a cast iron pan). Wagyu is quite fatty. Let it release its own fat. Keep the internal temperature around 52–54°C. If possible, use a thermometer.

If you have thin slices, you can dip them directly in a boiling sauce, water, or spicy stock for a short time before removing them. JUST A FEW SECONDS. If you're cooking over high heat, a few seconds on each side is sufficient. Generally, keep the spices to a minimum. The meat you're eating is already very delicious. Also, don't cover it with spices.

I've never had the chance to try Wagyu personally. The more I researched, the more curious I became. I hope to go to Japan and shoot with the farms and restaurants myself.

In conclusion, it was quite enjoyable to investigate how a meat-free culture produces the best meat. I found there were many detailed academic studies. While it's impossible to review all of them, I tried to do as much research as I could. I can say that this was a very enjoyable research article for me. I hope you enjoy reading it too.

If you have any questions, you can always reach me through my social media accounts or contact information.

JMGA (Japan Meat Grading Association). Meat Grading Standards in Japan. Tokyo: JMGA, 2017.
MAFF (Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries of Japan). “Beef Carcass Grading Standards.” MAFF Official Website. 2020.
Polkinghorne, R., Nishimura, T., Neath, K. E., & Watson, R. (2011). Japanese consumer categorisation of beef into quality grades, based on Meat Standards Australia methodology. Animal Science Journal, 82(2), 325–333. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1740-0929.2010.00843.x
Gotoh, T., Takahashi, H., Nishimura, T., Kuchida, K., & Mannen, H. (2014). Meat produced by Japanese Black cattle and Wagyu. Animal Frontiers, 4(4), 46–54. https://doi.org/10.2527/af.2014-0033
Hocquette, J. F., Botreau, R., Picard, B., Jacquet, A., Pethick, D. W., & Scollan, N. D. (2012). Opportunities for predicting and manipulating beef quality. Meat Science, 92(3), 197–209. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.meatsci.2012.04.007
USDA (United States Department of Agriculture). United States Standards for Grades of Carcass Beef. USDA, 2017.
Aus-Meat & Meat Standards Australia (MSA). Beef Grading Standards and Eating Quality. MLA, 2021.
Japan Meat Grading Association (JMGA) — Wagyu pişirme ve kalite değerlendirme yönergeleri.
Ishida, T. (2019). Wagyu beef: The Japanese art of steak. Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science.
Gotoh, T., Nishimura, T., Kuchida, K., & Mannen, H. (2015). The Japanese Wagyu beef industry: Current situation and future prospects — A review. Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences, 28(7), 993–1001. https://doi.org/10.5713/ajas.15.0027
Feinstein, P. (2022, 6 October). The Wagyu Olympics: The quest for the world’s best beef. BBC Travel. Retrieved from https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20221005-the-wagyu-olympics-the-quest-for-the-worlds-best-beef
Gotoh, T., Nishimura, T., Kuchida, K., & Mannen, H. (2018). The Japanese Wagyu beef industry: Current situation and future prospects — A review. Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences, 31(7), 933–950. https://doi.org/10.5713/ajas.18.0333